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The Seven Deadly Hair Care Sins

An Interview with Celeb Hair Stylist Patrick Melville About Hair Care Sins

Patrick Melville, of the Patrick Melville Salon and Spa in New York City, is one of the most prestigious hair stylists in the fashion industry. His work has been seen in the pages of Vogue, W, Elle and Harper’s Bazaar and his celebrity clients have included, Demi Moore, Heidi Klum, Halle Berry, Catherine Zeta-Jones, Brooke Shields, Sting, Mark Wahlberg, Harry Connick Jr. Tom Cruise and more.

I recently had the pleasure of speaking with Patrick, about what sins women are most often likely to be guilty of when it comes to their hair care.  I understand why his appointment book is full .  .  .  He cares about his clients, about making them look and feel good, that’s what makes a truly great stylist!

hair care sins

Here’s what Patrick shared with me

1. A RELUCTANCE TO CHANGE

When a woman gets stuck in a hair rut it’s usually fear that’s standing in the way. But fear is always an illusion, a false thought.

A change to your hairstyle, or color doesn’t need to be dramatic or major in order to give you a whole new look. Small changes like adding a touch of dimensional color, some face framing layers or a fringe, are great ways to freshen up your style and coincidentally, your spirit.

Skin tone alters slightly with seasonal changes so even the slightest adjustment to your hair color will pull your look together. Spring is the time for adding some brightening hues to the hair and in the fall, adding some warmth to the hair warms up skin tones that start to pale.

Patrick’s advice:  Shorten hair in the winter and let it grow longer in the summer months. Shorter hair compliments winter clothes with higher collars and scarves worn up around the neck.  And, longer hairstyles flatter the lower necklines and softer, sexier clothing of spring and summer. Trimming off summer damage is always a good idea and shortening the hair creates more volume in the winter when hair tends to lay flat to the head.

Spring to summer and winter to fall, your hair changes with the seasonal changes and a little change can always do a woman good, fear is never a good thing!

Woman Dyeing her own hair. Hair care sin

2. DIY At-Home Hair Color Sins

The mistake we see most often with at-home hair coloring is pulling the color through all of the hair. The result is dark ends and roots that are too light. The ends of the hair are typically more porous so they grab more color than the rest of the hair. Coloring over previously colored ends will also compromise the integrity of the hair.

Doing a single process hair color at-home may work for some, but always stay within 2 levels of your own hair color. Trying to do an at-home dimensional, color or highlights is a big mistake. If you’re going to color at home, Patrick suggests using a clear glaze afterwards to lock in your color and give the hair more shine.

For those times you can’t get into the salon and your roots won’t wait, here’s a great fix!

Patrick’s advice: A customized color kit made with your exact color formula. A Personal Color Extender Kit is the buffer you need when you can’t get in for your regular color appointment. It is enough color to touch up your hairline, your part and the area around your face to hold you over till you can get into the salon.

Woman using a Shampoo-bar. Hair care sins

3. OVER CLEANSING HAIR AND SCALP

Most people don’t need to shampoo daily. Over cleansing the hair by shampooing too often or with a wrong product, can dry the hair and strip it of its natural oils. Sulfate and paraben free products are best for saving the integrity of the hair and it leaving moisturized.  Even if you have extremely oily hair or you work out daily try these alternatives; Aveeno Pure Renewal Collection and Dry Shampoo.  Aveeno Pure Renewal is both a sulfate and paraben free product you can buy over the counter.  The Dry shampoo is great to hold you over in-between regular shampoos and an added bonus is it adds texture to the hair.

Patrick’s advice: Instead of always using a shampoo, wet your hair in the shower with warm water, add a bit of conditioner, comb it though and rinse it out. This will clean and moisturize your hair and shampooing less often will help retain your color longer too.

Stylist triming hair. Avoiding trims is a hair care sin

4. AVOIDING TRIMS WHEN GROWING HAIR

The sin here is that by NOT trimming your ends, you end up defeating the purpose you have set out to do! The thought that waiting longer in-between trims would get you to your goal of longer hair more quickly .  .  .  is just plain wrong.

Patrick’s advice: Dusting the ends ¼ inch every 8 to 10 weeks. This way your hair will look better and it will actually have a ‘redefined style’ to work with as it is in the process of growing. By dusting the ends every 8 to 10 weeks, it’s less painful; we don’t need to cut as much off. And, your hair will be more manageable and will look healthier too!

Woman with conditioner on her hair. Not conditioning is a Hair care sin

5. THE FEAR OF USING CONDITIONER

Everyone’s hair needs moisture and conditioning. Just as your skin needs a moisturizer to look and feel better, your hair needs moisturizing too! The fear that using a conditioner only flattens or dulls your hair is just plain wrong. Even those with fine hair need moisture.

Patrick’s advice:  A mistake many make is to apply too much conditioner or apply it in the wrong place. Conditioner should be applied from mid-shaft to the ends of the hair. The ends are the oldest and the driest part of the hair and therefore need the most attention.

Woman at hair product counter. Product misues is a hair care sin

6. PRODUCT MISUSE

Product misuse is not a little sin, using too much, using it in the wrong place, not knowing how to use it, afraid it will make your hair dirty so you don’t use it.

All products are formulated for specific uses and hair types. When a stylist gives you the breakdown on what products they are using and how to use them, be sure to listen and ask any questions you might have. Think of it this way; if the stylist needs the products to get your hair to look great, you are going to need them too!

If you’re convinced products just make your hair dirty, you may be using the wrong product or more product than you need.  Gels, mousses and other products when used right, will actually act as a barrier to help protect the hair from irons and other heating tools.

Patrick’s advice: When you’re in the chair don’t be afraid to ask questions. Don’t get discouraged, if you don’t get a new styling technique down right away, give yourself time to learn something new and let us help you correct any problem you may be having.

Woman blow drying hair. Too much heat is a hair care sin

7. Over Use of Heat

It’s always a good practice to use less rather than more heat when it comes to hair. And with tools that get as hot as 450 degrees or more, damaged hair happens.  It’s a good idea to give it a break when you can and do something else with your hair rather than the same old, same old, smoothing, flattening or curling.

Patrick’s advice:  Great alternatives to styling with hot tools are braids, buns and updos. Try putting damp hair into a bun overnight for soft, natural looking waves or braiding damp hair for a totally different effect.

  



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How to Repair Damaged Hair

How to Repair Damaged Hair

The Smart Girl’s Guide on How to Repair Damaged Hair

We have all been there. As we look down at the counter and see little hairs covering the counter top and we have lost count of the hairs we have pulled out of our hair brush, we find ourselves looking at our reflection in the mirror wondering, “Is my hair dry or damaged?” Today’s tale is about how to repair damaged hair. There are three major types of damage when it comes to your lovely locks.

 

Mechanical Damage

Your hair looks and feels dull ( like the hair of your favorite childhood doll) little pieces of hair fall onto your clothes. In some cases the hair looks singed, kinked and fuzzy.

  • The Cause –  brushing and teasing the hair in excess (picture a 1950’s beehive), and using thermal styling tools without the proper products.
  • The Solution – Use a good conditioning treatment once a week such as Joico Kpak Intense Hydrator, or Uans Crema. Also use a thermal protection spray such as, Bain de Terre Magnolia Thermal Iron Protector, or Paul Mitchell Hot Off The Press, each time you use a flat iron or curling iron.

 

Environmental Damage

Your color fades and your hair doesn’t feel clean;  it feels like product build up is on your hair.

  • The Cause – Sun exposure and pollution.
  • The Solution – Most professional hair care lines have U.V. protectants in their products and there are many leave-in conditioners that have U.V. protectants as well, such as Matrix Biolage Daily Leave In Tonic and Sebastian Potion 9 Lite. A good clarifying shampoo like SOMA Clarifying Shampoo, once or twice a month (depending on how much product you use) will help as well.

 

Chemical Damage

Your hair looks and feels fuzzy, it will not hold a style, looks like frayed cloth. It breaks off , inches at a time.

  • The Cause – over use of chemical services such as hair color, lightening, perming or chemical straightening.
  • The Solution – Stop whatever chemical process you are doing right now. Give your hair a break for a while – hats are in this season. You need to get a good deep conditioning treatment done with your stylist ASAP. If you can’t get to the salon – I highly recommend JOICO Kpak Revitaluxe. The newest addition to the Kpak family – this treatment is restorative and strengthens the hair with each use. For a leave in, Redken’s Extreme Anti Snap is terrific, just as it’s name states – it will help your hair from breaking or snapping off.

I highly recommend that you use Professional Salon products. Many of the other brands on the shelves have too many sulfates, detergents, silicone’s and alcohol which defeats the purpose.  Your hair may feel good but some of those products don’t penetrate the hair – they just coat the hair, which leads to further damage.

 

 

 

Contributing author Sara Stancu is “That girl in the red coat”. Sara is also the manager of a salon and retail shop with over 20 years of customer service and sales experience. Her tell it like it is approach is aimed at educating and enlightening clients, stylists and salon owners. She has also been the woman locked in the bathroom hating her hair. You can follow Sara on her website That Girl in the red coat and Twitter.

 



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Get Healthy Hair

Healthy Hair, Thicker Hair

How To Get Healthy Hair

by Elizabeth Passarelia Real Simple Magazine

A little extra effort pays off when painting a living room or baking a birthday cake. But when it comes to getting healthy hair, it’s better to do some strategic slacking. Experts refreshingly suggest: Stop trying so hard. In turn, you’ll have hair that’s in top condition (not to men­tion extra time in the morning and money in your pocket-book). Here, six no-nonsense tips for cutting back.“How to Get Healthy Hair”

COMB EARLY, BUT NOT OFTEN

Prevent post-shower snarls before you step under the water by using a wide-tooth comb on dry hair. (Wet hair is more fragile and prone to damage.) Then don’t pick up a comb or a brush again until your hair is partially dry.

SHAMPOO STRATEGICALLY

“People who have dry hair can easily go four to five days between shampoos,” says Harry Josh, a New York City hair stylist. Oilier hair may need lathering every other day. Consider subbing in a dry product, such as Oscar Blandi Pronto Dry Shampoo Spray, to break a daily-shampoo habit. If you develop greasy bangs or a limp-looking hairline, pull your hair into a shower cap but leave out the hair around your face. Then wash just that area, suggests Mandie Joslin, a hairdresser at the A Line Salon, in Corte Madera, California. Otherwise simply restyle between shampoos by wetting hair and drying it.

SKIMP ON HAIR CONDITIONER

If your conditioner bottle is empty before the shampoo bottle, chances are you’re using too much. A dime-size dab of conditioner suffices for most people, says Michael Jacobson, a co-owner of the Michael & Michael salon, in Chicago. Applying more than you need not only costs more but also creates a dirt-attracting residue that necessitates more shampoo­ing (and the vicious cycle begins again). Use conditioner from midshaft to the ends only, and rely on your scalp’s nourishing oils to keep the hair closer to the roots healthy. (Occasional strokes from a natural-bristle brush will help distribute these oils.)

TOWEL DRY BEFORE BLOW-DRYING

Trying to dry sopping-wet hair can take forever and invites heat damage. Speed things up by blotting hair with an absorbent towel (no rubbing, which roughs up strands). Next, gently wrap your hair turban-style until it’s 80 percent dry and move on to other tasks, like apply­ing makeup or getting dressed, while your hair dries naturally. Then enlist a dryer.

USE MEDIUM-HIGH HEAT

Try to give hair a break from heat styling at least three mornings a week. When you do wield a tool (be it a dryer or a curling or flat-iron), stick to a medium-high setting. “If your flat-iron has a temperature gauge, never turn it past 410 degrees,” says Chrystofer Benson, artistic director for Logics, a hair-care line. “Many irons go up to 450 degrees, but that setting is only for pros giving Japanese straight­ening treatments.” Before heat styling, apply a protec­tive spray, like John Frieda Frizz-Ease Heat Defeat. Then slowly run or roll the tool over each section of hair once or twice (instead of doing it quickly three or four times). “This is more effective, reduces damage, and lasts longer,” says Josh.

LAST TIP FOR HEALTHY HAIR . . . DON’T TOUCH!

Your fingers deposit debris and oil, so mindlessly stroking, tucking, or twirling your hair during the day is one of the quickest ways to dull it down and dirty it up. Always style hair with clean hands, then do your best to keep your paws off.



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